Bryn Keith – A Custom Fit For Every Wear

Tip #127

Made-to-Measure vs. Bespoke Clothing

There are misconceptions when comparing made-to-measure and made-to-order (bespoke) clothing. It seems that clothiers use the terms interchangeably and the two are far from synonymous. It’s the equivalent of comparing meat quality of burgers from McDonald’s and those of your favorite steak house. Technically, burgers are to be consumed and clothes are to be worn, but there is a difference in quality- no matter how subtle or stomach churning obvious.

By definition, made-to-measure clothing is constructed by “tweaking” existing patterns and sizes to fit a customer’s measurements. These clothes rarely address the wearers nuances (i.e. one shoulder more sloped/ square than the other, the curve of the upper back, hips higher/lower than standard, etc). Most often, customizable features are limited in number and feature type. For instance, jacket cuff buttons may not be functioning, you will only be able to select lapels types but not full or narrowness in style. Also, made-to-measure clothes are comprised of premade components of clothing, mass produced by different methods, and then assembled to create one garment per order.

Bespoke clothing goes far beyond using mere measurements to construct clothes. Bespoke garments are made from individually cut patterns produced from the wearer’s measurements and recorded nuances. This goes beyond mere sizing as it includes the curvature of the shoulder, the precise measurements of wrists, biceps, shoulders, and every nuance that makes each person unique. These products tend to have more hand-work and less machine-making as part of the construction process. The hand-made craftsmanship results in better fit and greater garment durability.

Tip #126

The Ten Essential Truth’s of Men’s Style by Nick Sullivan, Esquire

Most people, most of the time, judge you by what you’re wearing, and if you care what people think, you should care about what you wear. Life doesn’t get much simpler than that.
If you like something, respect it. Hang your pants. Roll your ties. Put shoe trees in your shoes. Oh, and wire hangers? The instruments of Beelzebub and, coincidentally, dry cleaners. Stick with wooden ones.
Pull yourself together. Always. Everywhere. Whether you’re going to the deli or on a date, every occasion has minimum standards. Try to meet them.
People who are slaves to matching (e.g., belts to shoes, socks to trousers) are shallow and tend to lack in the friends department. Anyone points out that something doesn’t match? Punch him. That’ll teach him.
Learn to sew a button. It’s a life-changing skill that teaches you patience and the value of self-sufficiency. We cannot say the same about knitting.
Never attempt maintenance, home improvement, house moving, or gardening in any of your best pieces of clothing. You are only asking for trouble.
The best way to look effortless is to work hard at it.
Your posture is half the investment in buying a new suit. If you’re not going to stand up straight, you might as well wear a Hefty bag.
Fit is the other half. Money is only a minor consideration.
Check your fly.

Tip #125

To Cuff or Not to Cuff

When working with both ladies and men, in designing shirts and suits, there is often the conversation concerning the appropriateness of cuffs for both shirts and slacks. While personal style is sometimes the determining factor, there are ‘classic style’ rules of thumb that we often share with those working through their ‘image objective.’

Shirts

The french cuff is one of those fashion notes that never goes out of style. Classically, french cuffs signify formality, more recently, french cuffs are frequently employed to dress-up casual looks. Whether you are looking to separate yourself from the pack with a french cuff shirt, blazer and crisp denim or an executive evoking the sophistication of your stature wearing a dark pin-striped suit with white a french cuffed shirt, the shirt makes a difference, however subtle.

French Cuffs Casual Outings

Believe it or not, french cuff shirts are not limited to dressing up. A french cuff shirt works well with a blazer, pressed jeans, and simple cufflinks. In this case, the cuffs speak to an air of sophistication without being out of place or looking too formal. If you feel the look is too plain or generic, add a pocket square with color that adds to ensemble. Though some wear french cuffs without a jacket, it’s much much better to wear those shirts with a blazer. Cufflinks selections are wide open novelty, metal, stones, etc.

French Cuffs for Business Meetings

Start with a tailored off the rack the suit or go custom. As typical as in business settings, when wearing a french cuff shirt, wear a darker colored suit (navy, shades of gray). The suit should flatter the wearer both in color and fit. The shirt, in this case, typically, is a crisp white, french blue, or sometimes soft colors with very subtle patterns. Cufflinks tend to be subdued, metal or silk knots.

French Cuffs for Formal Affairs

When it comes to formal affairs, there is very little wiggle room: tux, white shirt, medium to wide spread collar. The cufflinks should be metal, simple, and elegant.

Slacks

Now, slacks and cuffs. There are some rules of thumb that are classic standards and others that we practice and suggest to our clients. First, if slacks are flat front (meaning no pleats) do not wear cuffs. Second, if you are short, have short legs in comparison to your torso, do not wear cuffs. Cuffs visually end the leg which is a plus for taller longer legged people (men and women alike). Some stylists tend to think cuffs are for the more mature where no-cuffs are for younger. While flat front pants should not be cuffed, the opposite is not always true with pants with pleats. Pleated pants are fine with or without cuffs. Cuffs add weight to the bottom of pants making the pleats standout and balance the look. Either is appropriate, with the above in mind, and not age defining.

Furthering the point, classic American slacks have both cuffs and pleats. The opposite is true with European styling where flat fronts without cuffs are prevalent. Regardless of American or European preference, when it comes to tuxedos, go sans cuff.

Whether you are a style maven already defined in your style or you are a man/woman looking for direction, our team is primed and ready to sit with you and help determine the right look for the right occasion.

Tip #124

Fit to be Tied Too

Ties and shirts, shirts and ties- regardless of which comes first, pairing the two isn’t tricky. Though, it can be done really wrong. Gents, if you’ve ever gotten a compliment on your tie, chances are, you paired it well with your shirt and deserve a “high-five.” On the other hand, if you’ve worn a nice tie, confirmed by the fine people who sold it to you, yet have gotten no compliments, then something is wrong with your shirt-tie combo. Consider the following tips when dressing for the day.

White Shirt-Goes with any color or patterned tie.

Solid Color Shirt-Solid color shirts add depth. To pair a colored shirt with a tie, match a contrasting/ minor color in the tie with the shirt color.

Striped and Checked Shirts-Match the tie colors with the shirt colors. A rule of thumb, the pattern of the tie should be larger than that of the shirt. Remember, the tie is the decorative centerpiece of the ensemble.

While pairing ties with shirts is unique to the individual, there are a few rules to keep in mind:

Pairing a bold tie with a white shirt or wearing a contrasting collar on a dark or wide stripe shirt conveys power.
If your style is the trend of skinny/ lean cut suits, pair the suit with a striped shirt and a narrower tie.
The tie pattern should not be more noticeable that the shirt, balance is the goal.

At the end of the day, whether your look is to evoke the power of a Donald Trump, the swag of a suited Jay Z, or put you at ease like Mr. Rogers, it’s the little things that make the difference. Those differences are as simple as the size of tie patterns balancing with those of the shirt, the hues in the tie stripes coordinating with the shirt colors, or knowing when not to wear which tie with which shirts. If you have yet to get a compliment on the new tie that the salesperson convinced you was perfect, it might not be the tie’s fault, or the salesperson lied.

Tip #123

Face the Facts

Though our business is to serve customers from the neck down, it’s time we address what’s above the collar. In the next several additions to Savoir Faire, we will bring you our insights on what seals the deal when people first look at you. Keep in mind that shirts, blouses, suit collars, and accessories are designed to frame your face- that’s right, your face. If you are going to invest in what you wear, to present the best looking you, then you should duly invest the same time and effort in making a good looking you.

Stop, stop, stop using the same soap that you use on your body on your face, especially if it’s a deodorant soap. Don’t you think the same soap that’s strong enough to unfunk your feet after a day locked in leather shoes might be a little harsh on your skin lips and eye lids? If not, keep in mind that the soap scum you clean off of your shower walls is what you’re using to cleanse your face. The very best way to care for your face is by using products designed specifically for your skin.

Step 1: Wash

Most bar soaps tend to be too harsh for the face and strip off the protective oils that your face naturally produces. Your face should not be squeaky clean, yet soft, smooth and supple. By using the right cleanser you will ultimately do less damage leaving the natural oils, decrease the chance of causing skin irritation resulting in rashes, and improve your overall complexion. Also, in using a cleanser designed for your skin type, shaving (for men and a few ladies) becomes a little easier. This is due to having an appropriate cleanser that softens your face and stubble/ beard allowing the razor to glide with less facial irritation. You should use a facial cleanser, daily.

Step 2: Exfoliate

It’s not a coincidence that women exfoliate their faces. Exfoliation is a mild facial ‘scrub’ that safely and gently removes dry dead skin from you face—leaving your skin looking fresher and in some cases younger. As the season and air change; your body naturally begins to prepare for the cold weather, your face especially. Many people find that parts of their face are dryer now than the spring and summer months, not to mention their scalps. For some skin types exfoliating safely removes dead skin without stripping those natural oils your face produces. The number of times you should exfoliate per week is dependent on your skin type and condition. Our resident skin doc cautions, that while exfoliating can improve the appearance of your skin, it can also be overdone. Exfoliate 2-3 times per week.

Step 3: Moisturize

Adding a layer of moisture after cleansing helps maintain the ‘high-pro glow’ that proper cleansing and exfoliation provides. It also helps to lock in the moisture that your face naturally produces. Much like your body soap, the moisturizer you use on your body (and YES you should us a body moisturizer) maybe too heavy for your face. Look for moisturizers that are labeled “for face” or “non-comedogenic” (which means it will not clog pores). Look for facial moisturizers that are at least SPF 15 or 30. Applying facial moisturizer is not an exact science; you should apply enough moisturizer that your face doesn’t feel tight. Yet, if your face looks greased for a few rounds with Floyd Mayweather, then it’s a bit too much.

If you have questions about facial care or need suggestions in determining and selecting the right products and regiment for you, please contact us. Our licensed dermatologist, Dr. B, is on stand-by to answer any skin questions you send our way.

You only get one face to work with, do what it takes so that it works with you!

Tip #122

Know Your Knots

We have received several questions about the different types of tie knots and which one works with which collar type.

Four-in-Hand (Simple) Knot
Shirt Collars: Standard collars, button down collars
What Knots: Forms an asymmetrical knot; use wider neckties of heavier fabrics
Who: Anyone; men with shorter necks should consider this knot because the knot’s thin and lengthened form elongates the perceived height of the wearer’s neck.

Half Windsor Knot
Shirt Collars: Most collars, depending on the tie thickness standard collars may be too small, medium to widespread collars work best
What Knots: Forms a symmetrical knot; use wider neckties of light to medium fabrics
Who: Anyone

Full Windsor Knot
Shirt Collars: Spread
What Knots: Symmetrical, wide triangular knot; use wider neckties of medium to heavy fabrics
Who: Anyone; men with longer necks should consider this as their everyday knot as its width and heft shortens the perceived height of the wearer’s neck.

Pratt (Shelby) Knot
Shirt Collars: Most collar types
What Knots: Wide, though not as wide as the Full Windsor, tidy; use wider neckties of light to medium fabrics
Who: Anyone

Tip #121

I’m Too Sexy for My Shirt

We are asked by potential customers time and time again, “How should my shirt fit?” Our answer, “It depends.” It depends on where you are going, who you’re going with, what you are going to do, and if you are a Seinfeld fan.

General fitting rules of thumb are as follows:

The Sleeve:
The shirt sleeve should finish at the base of your hand, where your wrist and hand meet. The arm of the sleeve should be large enough that you can flex and the shirt does not pull on your biceps. At the same time, it shouldn’t be so full that the Seinfeld “Puffy (Pirate) Shirt” episode comes to mind. Style options aside, the cuffs on your shirts, should be large enough to account for the size of your wrist with and without a watch. If you’re going the custom route, your cuffs may not necessarily be the same size. Many of our customers, men especially, wear watches with larger faces/dials requiring us to make one shirt cuff larger than the other.

The Shoulders:
The shoulder seams should stop naturally at the end of your shoulder line. If the shoulder are a too snug, a ridge will form along the upper shoulder running parallel with you shoulders from one end to the other. An oversized shoulder will drape your shoulders and look like a child wearing their parents’ clothes. The shoulder should give you enough room that you can move your arms comfortably and not feel constrained yet isn’t so full and long that you can’t tell where your shoulders stop and your arms begin.

The Body:
Sleeve and shoulder fit understood, the body size of the shirt is important and often overlooked. Because of the lack of selection in stores, many accept the parachute effect. Off the rack shirts tend to be too (big) wide for most shoppers- the notion of one size fits many is good when buying cars and cell phone ear buds– not shirts. Your shirt should be tailored (form cut and long enough) so when reaching above your head or extending your arm to shake hands, it doesn’t pull out from the waist blousing out or become untucked.

The Collar:
Last but not least, finding a shirt collar that fits well is relatively easy when buying off the rack. You should be able to fit two fingers inside the front of the collar when the shirt is buttoned at the neck. This allows breathing room when wearing a tie and for those who fluctuate in weight with the seasons. Where most shirts really fail are in collar construction. Many people complain that their shirt collars get too soft and the collar-points curl like cooked shrimp. The solution to that is simple, buy metal collar stays– which will get lost or bent in the wash and with excessive use, or buy a shirt made with a better collar. Better collar you ask? Bryn Keith custom shirts are made with a double bonded collar that stays stiff and rigid over time. I have 3 year old shirts that are routinely machine-washed, yet the collars have more body than other brands with half the age that are dry cleaned only. (For the difference between dry cleaning and machine washing, see tip #115 “Shirt Care”.)

Bryn Keith custom shirts are made with heavier cuffs and collars that endure over time. Our measuring process and construction takes into account your lifestyle and expectations of your apparel. Whether your shirts are for more formal occasions or are intended for night life and weekend wear, we have fabrics and styles for both.

Tip #120

Fit to be Tied

Men have been wearing neck-wear since the 1600’s. Except for adding color and highlighting a man’s face, serving as a personal style element, symbolizing authority, ties have no other purpose. The tie is often what is most memorable piece when wearing a suit—it frames your face and can speak to what you are about and how you want to be perceived. It’s what separates men who are all wearing the same standard navy or grey suit and white shirt, from one another, at the office.

Regarding fit, there is no true ‘standard’ length for ties. Most regular ties measure any where from 52 to58 inches. Extra long ties exceed that length and can be found up to 65 inches. Though tie widths vary, 3 ¼ inches is the standard though widths may vary up to 4 ½ inches.

Tie fabrics and patterns are widely varied. There are ties in the market place made of silk, cotton, linen, wool, rayon, polyester and various blends. Tie patterns are much more varied than the fabrics which comprise them. Delineating patterns is a conversation all on its own. Just keep in mind that when selecting a tie, choose a particular fabric and pattern that speaks to you and your style.

Most men wear a tie to evoke quality, substance, and class. If the message you are looking to denote is of strength and power, choose a tie with bold colors and/ or patterns—think James Bond, Al Pacino. If you want people naturally at ease when seeing and speaking with you, wear a tie with subdued colors and patterns—Matt Lauer, Tavis Smile, and Brian Willams come to mind. Personal expression, through dress, is often a man’s signature. Let’s all agree that the creativity of Heathcliff Huxtable is one that should NOT be replicated.

At Bryn Keith, we offer a range of ties, in regards to fabrics, patterns, lengths and price. We have a selection of ready-made standard length and extra long ties, as well a custom tie program where you can create a one-of-a-kind tie (Four-In-Hand or bowtie). Let us help you help you! Affordable custom apparel and accessories is just a phone or email away. Contact Us

Tip #119

“It’s got to be the shoes!”

From Fred Astaire to Elvis Presley to Run DMC to Michael Jordan, the relationship between a man and his shoes is personal. Whether the shoes are the finishing touch to a tailor-made ensemble or being paired with the most comfortable pair of jeans in your closet—think about what you are putting on your feet. George Frasier of Esquire magazine once said, “Wanna know if a guy is well dressed? Look down.”

Consider these color pairings when getting dressed:

The condition of your shoes says something about you. Your shoes shouldn’t look like you stopped to play kickball in a rock quarry on the way to the office. Here are a few tips to keep in mind to help preserve your investment:

Shine your shoes at least once every seven wears. This will keep them looking good and help maintain the leather.
Place shoe trees in your shoes, as soon as you take them off. The leather is warm and malleable and the trees help maintain shape—cedar trees, particularly, help eliminate moisture. (Note: The average person has approximately 125,000 sweat glands in each foot—your shoes deserve a break.)
Buy quality shoes. Over the course of wearing dress shoes, it will be significantly cheaper to replace the soles and heels versus buying new pairs repeatedly.

Tip #118

Shop for Your Body

Your body has a certain shape that should be considered when clothes shopping. Color aside; there are 3 key components that should drive your purchase. First, consider your body shape and take an honest look at yourself. Do you have broad shoulders? Rounded shoulders? Well-defined chest? Trim waist? Full Stomach? Next, think about what styled clothes work best for you. Are you lean and mean and want to show off that physique or are you referred to as Puddin, Teddy Bear, or Biscuit? Finally, consider appropriate fabrics and patterns. If your purchases have people complementing your homage to the 70’s, there is work to be done!

Athletic Build: Broad shoulders, full chest, trim waist, narrow hips   Keep your look sharp, uncluttered and simple. Italian styled suits are best for you because they show off your physique. Choose jackets with wider lapels, single or double-breasted. Your build allows for slacks with pleats (though that is a conversation all on it’s on ‘To Pleat or Not to Pleat’). Finely woven fabrics either plain or with patterns will work (light weight twill, finely worsted wool, etc.) Patterns are predicated on your overall scale, though, pinstripes, herringbones, houndstooth, Prince of Wales are good ones. Crisp shirts with a nice stiff collar are better suited for you.

Square Build: Straight/squared shoulders, straight torso, chest and waist measurements are close, flat stomach   It’s all about proper fit. Choose clothes that are lean in styling and slightly tapered. British styled suits suit you best. Your height and proportions will determine single versus double-breasted jackets and lapel size. Pleated or flat front slacks are acceptable. The best fabrics for your build are worsted, twill, lightweight tweed, and mid-weight flannel. Patterns that work well are medium-weight stripes, bird’s eye, Prince of Wales, herringbone, and windowpanes. Lean cut shirts work best.

Rounded Build: Round shoulders, wide neck, waist measures larger than chest, full stomach   Think carefully about fabrics. American cut suits with relaxed fabrics are better, though British styles work as well. Single-breasted jackets work the best. Double-breasted jacket will make you look rounder. Flat front slacks or single pleat slacks are fine. Consider flannel, wool and cashmere, soft herringbone, soft twill fabrics. Your best patterns are chalk stripes, bird’s eye, medium weight tweed. Avoid fitted close fitting shirts and jackets.   If you have questions about the above, please ask. Whether you are a current Bryn Keith customer or shop elsewhere and are curious if what your tailor or sales consultant is doing you, we are here to help. Local or outside the DC-Metro, we are only a phone call away. Contact Us.

Tip #117

Conveying Your Message

We’ve all heard the slogan – “You only get one chance to make a first impression.” (Fortunately, I was in church the first time my wife saw me. Because she was moved by the Spirit, I was blessed with a second opportunity.) That said, why leave a first impression to chance? In selling products, merchants are conscious about market placement and how their product is packaged and presented. Whether you’re standing in a showroom or before a showcase, the ambiance created makes the right automobile right or the diamond that much more spectacular.

Imagine yourself as a product. What message does your image convey about you? In preparing for the day, consider where you are going, what you are planning to accomplish, and how your personal presentation lends to your success. Stylish dress is all about the overall affect and image you want to create. When dressing, consider your desired look. Determine what non-verbal messages you wish to convey.

At Bryn Keith, we use these principles and basic ideals to help you assess what your dress wardrobe says. We help determine if, in looking at you, people see George Clinton when in all actuality your intended message is to be George Clooney. Looking to update your look? Working with a limited budget yet want to add custom pieces to your wardrobe? You’re at the right place! Give us a call, send us an email, and let’s get started: Contact Us.

Tip #116

10 Rules of 21st-Century Business Casual

Esquire {The} Big Black Book 2008: The Style Manual for Successful Men

Thou shalt not wear a polo shirt to work, especially an orange one.
Thou shalt reduce the number of pleats in your khakis to one on each side. But only if your thighs need them.
Thou shalt covet a well-cut blazer. And well-cut blazer really needs shirt cuffs sticking out the sleeves.
While you’re nice and comfortable in your khakis, the hungry-looking kid in the lean suit is getting the promotion.
We have nothing against short-sleeved shirts in the workplace, per se. Just make sure to wear the matching hat while salting the fries.
If you’re wearing sneakers to work, no number of big deals or killer saves will make up for the fact that you are, in fact, wearing sneakers.
No logos, no mantras, and no ironic slogans. Your coworkers and clients do not need to know your team allegiances, your thoughts on the president, or your plan to drink till she’s cute.
Dress every morning as if you’re going to get promoted or fired. You’ll want to look your best.
No one is going to trust you to take care of their money if you can’t even take care of yourself.
You can dress like you’re retired only when you’re actually retired. For now, you’re getting dressed for work, sonny.

Tip #115

When wearing a dress shirt, do not attempt to wear it more than once. In fact, if you wear the shirt for more than 3 hours, it must be cleaned. I can understand a quick trip to Starbucks and your desire to impress the locals- you get a pass there. Remember your body secretes oils and perspiration that you may not notice. Don’t believe me, ask a significant other.

Pages have been written concerning proper garment care and we will thoroughly cover those topics over-time. In offering a line of quality custom shirts, we often share tips with our customers, regarding their shirts that many are surprised to learn. First and very important, do not starch shirts. Starch is bad for cotton and leads to untimely wear (usually frayed collars and cuffs) and the yellowing and crumbling of shirt buttons. If you want a stiff shirt, invest in burlap! Cottons are woven into soft and rich fabrics (Swiss and Italian cottons) don’t ruin them. If the aroma of your local dry cleaner is chemically laden, know that your clothes are getting a heavy dose of lye, hydrofluoric acid and or sodium hypochlorite. All of which shorten the life of your shirts and will have you back buying the same shirt much sooner than you would like- though your shirt maker will be happy to service you! If you can spare an extra few minutes to save yourself some money, consider the following:

Treat your collars and cuffs when you take them off at the end of the day; additional treating might be required just before cleaning.
Use an unscented detergent, avoid bleach and fabric softeners.
Wash your shirts in the washing machine on the Gentle Cycle; wash whites in warm water and colors in cold, dial up the temperature for heavily soiled shirts.
Hang dry on plastic hangers (white is safest), OR tumble dry on the ‘No Heat’ setting until damp then hang.
If you have the time and skill, you’ll find that by setting the iron on the Cotton setting and playing some good tunes (NPR and talk radio is good too), you can knock out a weeks worth of shirts in no time- with some practice you will do just as good a job as the dry cleaner.
(Really 5b) If you don’t have the time to iron shirts yourself, take your clean shirts to the cleaners and negotiate a price to have them press your shirts- STARCH FREE!.

If you cannot fit the above into your lifestyle, at the very least, find a dry cleaner whose cleaning agents don’t greet you before the staff does. As soon as you get home, promptly remove shirts from the plastic, and let them air out before closing them in the closet.